Thursday, September 27, 2007

Gusty Southerly

Surf has been flat or unrideable here since early Sunday morning. 4 days has been the longest I've gone without surfing since I began again a couple of months back.

My surfing buddy relies a lot on paid surfing reports and "models" that tell him whether or not it's worthwhile to drive out and get in the water. I'm more inclined to drive out and get in the water despite the reports just because I think there's no better way to start your day than with a dip in the ocean. And hey, if I manage to catch a crappy closeout wave or two, so be it.

Anyway, we spoke late last night and he told me that the "models" were wrong and that the surf was going to be a mess today. I told him I was heading out regardless and that if he wanted a ride, to let me know.

I woke a little late this morning and noticed that the trees were still. No wind! I clamored in the darkness for my clothes and kissed Judy on the head. "I'm gonna go see what's out there," I said. Our daughter was nestled up next to her in bed, looking warm and comfortable. I ran downstairs and out the door.

By the time I arrived in my town, only a few miles away, the flag was stiff with a gusty southerly. One look at the flag and I knew what the surf would be like. White water mush with strong currents.

At 6:00am, the only people in town are the sanitation department guys, running around in fluorescent orange vests emptying garbage bins and hooking large hoses up to the hydrants, to hose down the streets. Since not many people are driving through town every morning with surfboards on their car, they've come to recognize me, and I waved to them as I decided to turn around and head back home.

I turned on the teakettle and walked back upstairs to the bedroom. I slid into bed next to our daughter and buried my nose in her hair, the hair that we cut for the first time just yesterday. Since she's not going to nursery school until January now, every extra moment we have with her has taken on a new importance... even if we appreciate those moments before she wakes up.

As I listened to her breathe and smelled her hair, I thought maybe getting in the ocean isn't the best way to start the day after all.


artha said...

Nicely written and so true. They grow up in the blink of an eye.

Dinosaur Trader said...

Thanks, artha.


Bluedog said...

Great writing, DT. It's always a pleasure to read your blog. Winter swell should be coming soon.


Dinosaur Trader said...


Thanks! For us, September is usually a good month. It's odd that it's been so flat.

Reading Dogs Of Winter now, btw...