I woke up this morning to go surfing. The conditions were perfect for me and my longboard. A nice, clean and glassy, 4 foot swell. Really mellow. Although the water temperature is now sub 40 degrees, it didn't feel cold at all because there was absolutely no wind and the air temperature was pleasant.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
It felt like spring.
The coolest thing was when a harbor seal poked his head up out of the water about 20 feet from where I was sitting on my board.
So a couple of times after I caught rides I had to paddle all the way back out from the inside. It was somewhat challenging, because I'm still not in great shape. My lungs are still feeling the effects of a month-long bout of bronchitis. When I was in that position, I thought of a quote I read when I was browsing around late Friday night.
"Fall seven times. Stand up eight."
Its worth in terms of getting through trading and trading slumps, is obvious.